Denims are a fashion staple adorned whether youโre eight or eighty; basically anyone. Be it a denim jacket or a pair of skinny jeans, it is one piece of apparel that is a part of most wardrobes. Even more so, now you can find a wide range of denims, from distressed jeans to denim dresses to embellished jackets.
India is said to be the second largest producer of denims worldwide after China. The boom in the Indian denim sector has been so impactful, that Ahmedabad in Gujarat has been anointed as โthe Denim City of Indiaโ.
This versatile fabric has been around since ages, but how much do we know about it? Do you know whatโs denim made of? How does its production impact the environment?
Read onโฆ
What are denim made of?
Traditionally, denim is a twill weave cotton fabric. It is made up of two yarns that are woven together. It is dyed with indigo dye, extracted from a plant called Indigofera tinctoria. Warp yarns are dyed before being woven into the denim but the weft yarns are not dyed or are bleached instead.
How does denim affect the environment?
Initially, the process of pigment extraction utilized minimal water and no chemical fertilisers were in use. But as the want for denim rose, the demand for indigo outstripped supply and thus, led to the development of a synthetic alternative. Nowadays, a good chunk of denim manufacturers make use of this inexpensive manmade indigo dye. However, this dye is derived from petrochemicals and therefore its production process generates toxic waste.
It is not just the dye, the base fabric cotton is blended with all kinds of synthetic fibres like elastane and polyester, making it rather unsustainable. Each time you wash your jeans, microfibers are released into the waste water that eventually lead to the damage of the marine ecosystems. Plus, to get the washed, pre-retail faded look on the jeans a lot of water is used.
How much water does it take to make one pair of jeans?
Researchers say that a whopping 7600 litres of water is required to produce just one pair of jeans! The entire production process is so water-intensive, that it raises a lot of concern regarding the conventional processes employed when the world is staring at fresh water shortage. A recent Central Groundwater Survey revealed that India is facing an average decline of 52 per cent in groundwater levels across all states.
Are expensive jeans sustainable?
Expensive need not always mean sustainable. Denim brands that focus on sustainability make the denim making process eco-friendly by either making use of better cotton, better manufacturing units, or better techniques.
However, some expensive brands think nothing about the planet. The brand value they have built over the years is added to the price of the jeans. Youโll find some lower-priced jeans companies to be more conscious and mindful than some big names.
Does sustainability mean only being eco-friendly?
Sustainability is often talked about in terms of the environment. However, the positive effect of being sustainable expands to social, economic and community initiatives as well. To illustrate with an example, the use of less freshwater is as sustainable as having conducive working conditions for the workers.
Any conscious brand should see this an ongoing, incremental process with an aim to reduce the utilisation of depleting resources and progressively become carbon neutral or carbon negative one day.
How are denim brands being sustainable?
The Indian denim sector is embracing sustainability in a big way where mills are using zero fresh water during manufacturing and some global brands have introduced waterless washes. The good news is technologies and methods such as the use of ozone and laser machines, curing and using the waste water for denim processes, and foam dying methods have significantly reduced water usage. A few of the methods used are:
- Foam Dying:
Certain brands use leftover denim and spin it into yarns, which is foam dyed โ dye is added to the fabric using air โ instead of employing water-intensive processes.
- E-flow technology:
In this technology, very tiny bubbles, called nano-bubbles, and ozone are used to soften the fabric instead of water. This substantially cuts the usage of water.
- Use of Laser technology:
Instead of harmful chemicals and bleaches, lasers are used to add fading lines and streaks to the denim fabric.
Sustainability may be good for the environment but how does it benefit me?
A pair of jeans created uses sustainable means used better raw materials and less water. It also becomes better for your skin and health as a hundred percent cotton jeans lets your skin breathe far better than its polyester counterparts.
How can I reduce the negative impact denims have on the environment?
Wait. You donโt need to stop shopping for denims anymore. Here are few of the steps you as a consumer can take:
- Choose durability over fast-fashion
The main issue with fast fashion is that is not built to last and users just dump it in a couple of months post use. This simply creates more waste. Choose well-made and durable jeans that last for years. This is the simplest way to reduce your contribution to the landfill.
- Think before you throw
Try to get as much wear out of your favourite pair as possible. But making your jeans last longer isn’t just about emotional attachment โ it’s also about the environment.
- Recycle; Keep them out of the landfill
When you no longer want your jeans, make sure you recycle them. To ensure this, buy at least 98% cotton denim. This is because the stretchy elastane or lycra makes the denim difficult or even impossible to recycle. Plus, avoid rips, chemical washes, dyes, finishes, and prints as these also make a pair of denim pants and will likely condemn them to the landfill.
- Support upcycled denims and products
Upcycle old jeans that you are so fond of into something much more valuable. We at Rimagined, use our (R)imagination to creatively convert pre-consumer denim waste as well as post-consumer denims into tote bags, bed covers, aprons, laptop bags, and so much more. It is a new way to look at denims.
- Buy/ use second-hand
A good pair of vintage jeans or hand-me-downs from your near and dear is not only a great way to preserve the emotional value attached to the jeans but also getting making a vintage style statement.
- Support sustainable production models
Look for denim brands whose production requires less water, energy and fewer chemicals and is ethical than conventional denim brands.
References:
- https://www.instyle.com/fashion/eco-friendly-denim-jeans-brands
- https://www.scrapnyc.com/blog/the-impact-of-denim-on-the-environment
- https://thevoiceoffashion.com/sustainability/responsible-fashion/myths-and-truths-about-denim-and-sustainability-4484
- https://medium.com/@stitchdiary/the-dirty-truth-behind-your-favorite-pair-of-denim-cdc49a59734d
- https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/overview-indian-global-denim-industry-fashion-2022-gokultexprint?trk=pulse-article_more-articles_related-content-card
- https://denimhunters.com/denim-wiki/denim-explained/denim/
- https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/know/it-takes-7600-litres-of-water-to-make-your-jeans/article30871977.ece